Monday, 4 March 2013

Duck and Waffle, Bishopsgate

Set on the 40th floor of the Heron Tower, just behind Liverpool St station, Duck and Waffle fluffs it's feathers, waiting for it's guests, at any time, to visit London's first twenty-four hour restaurant.
Transported to the summit by an ear-popping high-speed lift journey when you are greeted, seemingly up in the clouds, it feels a little like you've travelled over the border into a different country.
I came to Duck & Waffle for weekend brunch and looking out at the spectacular views gave me that smug, satisfaction, Londoners get when they aren't getting pissed off with a sea of elbows on the tube and instead focus on the good bits of our city.
Thankfully, I got a good look at the view as we waited to be seated because having been introduced to our affable waiter we were seated at the only table which had it's view spoiled by a thick blanket of condensation.
The best views in the city were behind a clouded window which made it feel a little like we were attempting to eat brunch by the side of a steamed up shower door in a penthouse bathroom.
These things happen and the waiter did apologise but it's definitely something to bear in mind when booking.
Thankfully, when the brunch menu arrived the food sounded so glorious we were immediately distracted!
The traditional breakfast fare was there but so were the wonderfully indulgent sounding, duck egg in a brioche basket, all day foie gras breakfast and braised ox cheek with eggs benedict. Wow.
I went for the duck eggs en cocotte served with wild mushrooms, gruyere, truffle and soldiers (£10) and my guest chose the signature duck and waffle, crispy leg confit, duck egg, mustard maple syrup, served on top of a waffle (£15).
Our dishes arrived promptly, were beautifully presented and each glorious mouthful completely lived up to our excitement.
The coddled egg was creamy with a distinct tang of gruyere and luxurious depth from the truffle, my only complaint would be that I would have loved a few more soldiers to dip in with. But then I am a little greedy.
The duck and waffle was incredible, crispy waffle with soft duck and a sweet and savoury sauce that married it all together.
It was so lip-smackingly delicious I wondered why it hadn't tried it before, like rhubarb and custard, a pint and a packet of crisps, duck with syrup and waffles is a perfect pairing.
A trip to Duck & Waffle wouldn't be complete without trying their famous ox cheek doughnut served with apricot jam (£8).
Something so deliciously different, yet familiar, that I struggled to even imagine what it would taste like.
Thankfully we shared the gigantic sweet and although I couldn't have eaten a whole one, the doughnut was one of the most intriguing things I've ever tasted.
It had a doughy centre, the moist juice of the meat in the middle softened the crust, which was crunchy with seasoning, pulled together with the sweet, fruity jam which gave you a burst of sugar.
It's hard not to take a bite and think of the work that has gone into it, it was so gargantuan and boastful it felt like there was something a little 'Henry the Eighth, medieval banquet,' about it.
Taking into account the quality and imagination in the dishes, the thoughtful menu and skyline views of the city, as well as the helpful and cheery staff, Duck & Waffle is very reasonably priced.
I'll definitely be returning, in fact, I've already chosen what I'll have next time......

Duck & Waffle on Urbanspoon

1 comment:

  1. Lovely review Isabelle, good to have you on Triptease! I hope to try that ox-cheek donut myself in the near future.